A Cape York River Crossing

Leaving normality behind at Cairns, we journeyed up the Peninsula Developmental Road. This further deteriorated in to a dusty corrugated trail which wound along the route of the telegraph line, between giant termite mounds and across numerous rivers as much as the little Aboriginal city of Bamaga on Cape York. “The beginning of HELL — get back if you can”, announced an amusing handwritten sign even as we headed off into the wilderness!

River crossings of almost all manner and form interupted our own journey — with axle-deep mud, decaying wooden bridges (the actual odd log missing here and there to add to the task), deep dust or fast flowing water to keep you busy. It was a traditional four wheel drive journey. The grandest challenge, however, was the crossing in the Jardine River.

Even in the dry season, the Jardine River, just 35 km south of Bamaga, is a wide, one metre deep, fast-flowing river. In 1983, the luxury of a little ferry had just become offered to carry the vehicles carrying the less foolish across this famous barrier for that princely sum of $20. Many husband and wife battles then erupted by the banks of the Jardine because cautious wives and thrill-seeking husbands debated the relative merits from the challenging river crossing and also the tame punt ride. As newlyweds, we too had the dispute here, but in our case it was the adventure-seeking wife that desired the river journey!

To drive across a river such as this requires lots of preparation. A diesel motor like ours requires a lengthy air snorkel to attract air from well above any possible water level. Tyres must be deflated, waterproof covers packed across the engine and openings such as fuel tanks and doors should be thoroughly waterproofed. We watched with dread as numerous vehicles attempted the crossing — and several failed, becoming stuck mid-river with the crocodile infested waterss swirling across the driver’s feet and camping gear floating at the back of the vehicle!

Finally the adventure-seeking wife won out. A group of fellow Patrol travellers came to our help and gave us a snorkel along with covers which fitted the vehicle. So with our vehicle set up like a Christmas turkey, we drove down to the muddy waters of the Imposing Jardine.

Across the river all of us drove, pushing a moderate bow-wave ahead of us. John said it felt so excellent he wanted to change direction and keep driving the river! Then through a heart-stopping very deep hole near the end and up the steep bank we drove, masters of the Jardine. I bet they do not have this much fun if you do one of the organised Cape York Tours.

Our wet vehicle on the other hand seemed little the worse for its adventure. However, it cost us more to exchange the gearbox oils that had become waterlogged as opposed to little punt ride would have cost. So sanity prevailed on our return journey a month later and the Landcruiser got a drier ride over the Jardine on the car punt!